On to Lerik, Azerbaijan

BY PEGGY ARRINGTON | September 13, 2004

Country: Azerbaijan

Topics: Health, Women, Children

Azeri schoolchildren stand stoic in their classroom as they receive gifts donated by American students. Photo: Peggy Arrington

A few days later, we took a two-hour excursion to the Lerik region. Along the way, we could see numerous bakeries where huge rounds of yeasty local bread were being slapped on the hot surface of preheated clay ovens. We stopped and Jake purchased one of the still-warm loaves to munch along the way. It was some of the best bread I had ever tasted!

Once again we climbed up and up, jostling from side to side, until we reached an altitude of around 6,000 feet. Soon, we stopped at the Lerik Pediatric Hospital, another dilapidated facility, for a meeting with the regional mobilizers. They explained that, during the Soviet era, the schools and hospitals were in fairly good shape. However, following independence in 1990, everything started to fall apart.

Our meeting space was another Mercy Corps-refurbished room that looked clean and professional. One could immediately sense the pride of being a part of Mercy Corps on the faces of the eight immaculately attired men who joined us. Dr. Uma Kandalayeva (the Project Director) and Dr. Tahir presided.

It was immediately clear that this group of men was newer to the program than their counterparts in Yardimly. Lerik's program is only six months old. The men spoke of encountering resistance in some of the villages. Uma and Tahir encouraged them and gave advice on how to best handle recalcitrant groups.

I was again given the opportunity of posing questions. Each man gave a very positive response. They spoke of having changed a lot themselves and of having learned a lot, even though most of them already had medical degrees. They seemed especially pleased to be able to act as agents of change in their communities.

By the time our meeting concluded, the weather had deteriorated. Sheets of rain were turning the already muddy roads into rivers and the temperature dropped to a chilly forty degrees. Undaunted, we headed off to one of the outlying villages in order to confer with another village health committee.

This village committee, consisting of six women and eight men, had been elected by the locals and was formed to act as a support system for the Child Survival Project. The idea was to empower the villagers to begin taking responsibility for their own healthcare. Although only in operation since January, this core of community leaders was impressive in their eagerness to learn and to support Mercy Corps in its efforts.

Our next mission was to distribute gifts, given by a group of American students, to the local school children. As we entered the small, meagerly furnished classroom, boys in suits and girls in frilly dresses rose to their feet, hands severely at their sides. They proceeded to remain at attention as the colorfully decorated boxes were distributed. Not a single smile broke their somber expressions and no attempt was made to unwrap the tempting parcels. I was shocked!

I understand from Jake's experience as a teacher that this is the usual manner of discipline in Azeri schools. It seems that the children were told to wait until they got home to open the boxes. They did all express a resounding "thank you" as we departed.

My eye-opening trip was near an end. I had seen whole communities being transformed by the actions and commitment of a dedicated group of individuals. Women were being empowered and encouraged to take charge of their own and their children's health. Men were learning to teach women about birth control and effective breastfeeding. Children were reaping the benefits of a more informed and supportive community.

Even so, much more needs to be done. Roads, schools, hospitals and regional health centers are desperately in need of attention. The local people are ready and eager to help themselves and to reverse their decline.

I will certainly return to America a wiser and more appreciative person, having been afforded a glimpse of this all-but-forgotten corner of the world. I will keep these dedicated staff members in my prayers as they go about their mission of mercy.